Cultivation of the tomato

The tomato must be grown in a sunny position, exposed to the south and sheltered from wind, if possible close to a hedge.
Temperatures below 10°C during flowering cause deformation of fruits and dieback of plants.
The tomato prefers a light, fresh, well-drained soil. What counts is the organic matter that will be incorporated into the soil.

The tomato with other plants :

Certain plants protect the tomato from insects, stimulate the growth and give shade.
The principal friends of the tomato are: French marigolds, nasturtiums, pot marigolds, basil, parsley and chives.
It doesn't like being near to cabbages, fennel, gherkins or cucumbers.
In the vegetable garden it will associate well with corn and any of the other cucurbitaceaes.

Fertilising :

The tomato needs nitrogen to develop. Water it twice at 15 day intervals with a nettle fertiliser diluted 1/10 until the plant revives.
An excess of nitrogen will cause over development of the leaves to the detriment of the fruits. It carries a risk of making the plants susceptible to disease.
Phosphorus is essential for the formation of roots. It also stimulates the flowers and fruits. A lack of phosphorus causes excessive greening of the leaves, they turn a purple colour on the underside before falling.
A suspension of comfrey takes over from the nettle fertiliser, it is less rich in nitrogen and promotes fruiting by its richness in potassium.
Not everyone can make their own fertiliser. It is possible to buy specific fertilisers for growing tomatoes, make sure to read and carefully follow the instructions in order not to exceed the prescribed doses.
The introduction of fertiliser should be made 1 to 2 times a month at most, an excess will be harmful to the growth. If the plants wilt its probably due to an excess of fertiliser.

Watering :

Tomatoes like a damp but not soggy soil. A lack of water slows the absorbtion of calcium and nutrients into the soil.
On average, tomatoes should receive around 3cm of water each week, but much depends on the weather and soil... On a light soil it is necessary to water more often than on a heavy soil.
Preferably water in the morning if posible, with the water not too cold, and avoid wetting the foliage.

Mulching :

Mulching keeps moisture in the soil and improves root aeration. Cover the soil around the plants with 5 to 10 cm of dead leaves, straw, peat...
Synthetic mulch is also suitable on condition that fertiliser has been incorporated before use.

Pollination :

It is bees and the wind which ensures the pollination of the flowers. If you grow tomatoes in a greenhouse or indoors, it will probably be necesary to manually pollinate the flowers with the aid of a fine brush.

Pruning :

Pruning is necesary to improve light penetration, regulate the side shoots and promote fruiting.
Pruning to one stem is ideal for early varieties, it advances harvesting by around 15 days. However, it reduces the effeciency of the plant.
Pruning to 2 stems produces more fruits. When the main stem reaches 20 cm, pinch it out to form 2 stems and remove the lateral growths. Later, pinch out the 2 stems above the 4th flower cluster.
Pruning to multiple stems is practised on plants that have a larger development. Pinch out the main stem when the plant has reached a height of 30 cm. Leave 4 or 5 lateral growths. Later pinch out the stems above the 4th flower cluster.

Removing side shoots or "suckers" :

Side shoots or "suckers" form between the base of the stem, the leaves, and the main stem. These "suckers" draw a lot of sap, to the detriment of the future harvest, and must be removed as they appear.
This operation consists of "pinching" the "sucker" between the thumb and index finger and removing it in one dry movement.

Stopping and leaf removal :

Stopping tomato plants consists of removing, by pinching out, their growing point on the principal stem.
This is done some weeks before the end of the harvest, and it promotes the ripening of the last fruits before the first frosts.
Leaf removal is to pick off the diseased leaves, yellow leaves and any leaves that touch the earth...
At the end of the season certain leaves can be removed to allow sunlight to ripen the fruits.

Diseases and parasites :

Crop rotation is the best means of avoiding diseases and keeping insects away. Avoid growing tomatoes close to other solanaceaes like the potato, peppers and aubergines.
Bad growing conditions promote diseases:
Be careful of excessive fertilising, watch your watering and make sure that your tomatoes are not lacking in nutrients. If you find diseased plants or fruits, burn them !
A nettle suspension is effective in preventing and fighting against mildew. It must be more concentrated (1/8) than when used as a fertiliser (1/10).